LumberJocks

SPIRAL DESIGN #3: Endgrain discolorization ..... solved.

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by BertFlores58 posted 1330 days ago 1459 reads 1 time favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: The construction...Selection of wood Part 3 of SPIRAL DESIGN series Part 4: Progress ... going halfway »

I have experimented on how an endgrain can retain its original color and grain pattern. Here are some observations:

1. Oil based stain, tung, linseed, and others … will absorb more and will be very dark than as expected base color even how thin it will be applied (actually it is difficult to control on how thin, number of coats will not make any difference because one coat will be completely penetrate in the wood.

2. Lacquer based.. sanding sealers, gloss or flat lacquers – at first it seems that color will not change. The lacquer stays on the top but later it vanishes and penetrates deep inside the wood. The sanding sealer works best however it must dry immediately and therefore must be sprayed during hot weather. If the sealer stays longer on the endgrain then change of color will happen. The problem with sanding sealer is the compatability of it to other finishes. It easily melt down or bubbles up when you apply polyurethane, lacquers or even varnish. This makes the trouble… if the sealer melts, the later coats like poly will then penetrate as well and discolor the pieces.

3. VALSPAR varnish.. After applying directly valspar varnish, the color of the wood was so dark. You need time to dry for a varnish making more amount to be absorbed and discolor the endgrain. For normal finishes this is very good because of the luster that it creates. It is also a very good sealant for water.

4. GLUE…. THIS IS THE SOLUTION I FOUND…. Accidentally, I was surprised that some portion of the joint pieces is preserved with the same color. I noticed smudges of glue. That was not intentional. I knew from experience that glue is a problem in staining a piece. Once you have smudges of glue, stain will not penetrate. LAST NIGHT, I intensionally apply a thin (hard to say it is thin because I just poured out the glue and spread them as quick as I can). Let it dry. Sand a bit. Apply poly, lacquer and valspar. IT WORKED. The endgrain is perfectly sealed with GLUE and no matter what finish you apply, there is no problem of melting.
It maybe expensive…. but no… you save a lot using glue… probably a HIDE GLUE is more cheaper however I don’t have it and hard to get in Manila… I use ELMER’s Carpenters glue because it is quickly flowing and drying. AT LAST END GRAIN DISCOLORIZATION IS NO LONGER A PROBLEM… YOU CAN TRY IT and if you are convince then here is the next move to do HOW TO APPLY? ... Use a rubber spreader, Use a roller, use a rug, use hand… up to you… I will post photos next series…

-- Bert



8 comments so far

View wseand's profile

wseand

2069 posts in 1547 days


#1 posted 1330 days ago

Quite interesting never thought of using glue to keep endgrain fron darkening. It would be interesting to see how long it holds up. I would assume for many years. Great blog and good info.

-- Bill - "Freedom flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1621 days


#2 posted 1330 days ago

thank´s for the update :-)
but maybee not so good for cuttingboards ..lol

Dennis

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1637 posts in 1428 days


#3 posted 1330 days ago

Dennis,
You gave me an idea… HIDE glue are from animal protein and not synthetic base. This will help also in sealing those cutting boards that are only hanging on the wall for display … lol. However, I am in doubt ..in real life. maybe the hide glue is not heat resistant. At home, I see most of the time the cutting board are poured with a boiling stuff … that will melt the glue… The good thing using hide glue … the food you will eat will be protein rich … lol Hope you got the point..

-- Bert

View RonPeters's profile

RonPeters

708 posts in 1386 days


#4 posted 1329 days ago

In violin making, hide glue can be used to seal the wood. It’s the granular – make it as needed – hide glue, not the commercially available ‘liquid hide glue’. Glue strength can be controlled by using more or less water.

There is also an art product called “Liquin” that is used to seal the wood.

-- “Once more unto the breach, dear friends...” Henry V - Act III, Scene I

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1637 posts in 1428 days


#5 posted 1329 days ago

Thanks again Ron! I just read your reply on the rectangular blog..

Now I remember the violin maker.. You made it really special finish.

I have a couple of question on the violin. My second string twice broken because the string touches the 3 string tightening key. What should I do?
Are you familiar with Jackfruit lumber? Is it good for soundboard for the violin? I am drying it for preparation?
Where can I buy this “Liquin”?
Hope, this is not too much to ask from you. Thanks

-- Bert

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1621 days


#6 posted 1329 days ago

yah I got it even with my poor english and slow brain….lol
if only people cuold let minimum of hot water come over the boards
and not the boiling water then there wuold be no problem
as I have read ( maybee I got it wrong) then shuold the hide glue
over 100 degrees celcius before it melting
then there shuold be anything wrong with using 65 degrees water
thats the temp. where all theese nasty bacterias is killed

Dennis

View BritBoxmaker's profile

BritBoxmaker

4282 posts in 1542 days


#7 posted 1329 days ago

Glad to see you have a resolution.Thinned PVA (with water) is good for sealing, on the cheap.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1637 posts in 1428 days


#8 posted 1329 days ago

Martyn, Thanks.

Herebelow is the experiment I made with same sample of 3 wood. The darker sample was not coated with glue.

Just to let everybody see the comparative sealing effect have following photos.

NARRA … endgrain and red orange
narra

the lighter one has glue on it… the finish is sprayed gloss lacquer.

THE MOLAVE

molave

THE PADUAK (Malaysian) and MAKOPA (local fruit tree in the Philippines)

combi paduak and makopa

Note the portion in joint where a smudge of glue really showed it is whiter than the portion not coated with glue.

-- Bert

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase