It still needs some work, but I was able to roll it outside and make a couple test cuts (a new shelf for my shop cabinet, and a board for the stand needed to be shaved just a bit.
The Shop fox fence is nice, I originally had not planned on replacing the fence, but the opportunity presented itself in the form of a (clearance?) sale on Grizzly for the fence. I did have to exchange the first one I received as it would not align properly, even after calling tech support (which was very helpful).
The saw itself with the new Pulley (sheave), link-belt, and bearings runs very smoothly. It starts up way better than before the overhaul. The fence, and blade are all aligned to the miter slot which makes for smooth cut. The saw passed the nickel test.
The teflon spray I used made the table top very smooth, the two inagural cuts seemed to glide across the table effortlessly.
- I just ordered a 25’ 12 gauge extension cord, I’ll cut off the receptacle end and wire it directly into the paddle switch, which is now mounted on the left side of the saw. I’ll probably end up making some sort of cord storage on that side as well.
- I screwed up when I applied the adhesive backed measuring tape. It was off by about 1/4”, so I ordered a new one with the extension cord.
- Secure the electical wire better (it will ultamately be in the void where the dust collection shoot will be.
- Paint job on the base? I kinda like the rustic look of the pallet boards, but I may end up painting it to protect the wood. . . or just leave it and rebuild the base later with some 3/4” plywood.
- Onboard storage to hold all the misc things that goes with the saw. I’m still debating this one. The motor, fence, and extra saw blades will add a lot of weight which may make it too unweildy to bring in and out (I don’t have a shop, just a storage area and an outdoor patio).
- Dust and chip collection. I intend to make a V-shaped dust collection bin under the saw base, and friction fit my shopvac hose to it. As I think about it, I may need to add some sort of access so that I can pull out any small pieces of wood that fall into the throat plate (or make some z-clearance inserts).
Tweaks in the immediate term:
I need to lower the wheels (3” poly swivel casters) by an additional 1/2 – 3/4” to allow more clearance for the mobile base when the saw is lifted. I also need to look at the lifting mechnisim I came up with to see if I can get a little more lift.
Long term: make a 3/4” plywood cabinet for the saw to sit on and get some 1/2” plywood on the mobile base as a platform to build on.
Front, table view:
I mounted the switch on a piece of 2×4 bolted to the left hand side, behind the rail. I’m seeking any suggestions for a better attachment method. the positioning seems to be ok, but I’m not sure how well the 2×4 scrap will hold up.
I also took the two stamped steel wings and put them both to the right-hand side. They fill the space between the edge of the cast iron top to the end of the rails quite nicely.
I do need to find a better method to attach the electrical wire so it does not get tangled or caught on anything.
I intend to place a V shaped “dust collection” bin under the base of the saw. I have some 1/4” hardboard to make it out of and I’ll cut a hole in the back to friction fit a shopvac hose to.
I realized that the insert plate had some leveling screws, I used those to get the plate to fit right, before it stuck up just a tad and my workpieces would occassionaly get caught on it. That shouldn’t happen any more. I also used a #10 pan-head screw to secure it (the screw was a little tight, but a #8 was way too loose. Not sure what size it is supposed to be).
I used a small 13 cu/in handybox to mount a duplex outlet for the saw motor and my shopvac. Hopefully this will make clean-up a little easier by turning both on and off at the same time.
View of the Back
You can see the two 2×4 levers I’m using to raise and lower the base to the ground. The only time the casters are used is when I’m moving the saw, otherwise the entire base makes contact with the floor. Green Harbor freight link-belt, and the new pulleys semed to work out well.
I did have to file one of the miter slot openings on the fence rail. It covered the miter slot just a tad. The way I have the rails mounted (I mounted them to get the greatest rip capacity to the right of the blade). I have a 25” rip capactiy to the right, I think that’s a little bit more than before.
The right side
Not much to see here. I have to take the motor, blade guard, fence and everything off to get it though the door, it barely squeaks by with none of the attachments. This makes setup and break down take a little longer. There’s nothing I can really do about that right now.
I did use primer and 1 coat of black paint to coat the indented portion of the stamped steel wings. The edges I just sanded the rust off of and let it be. Any paint I added to the edges would probably just transfer to my work over time anyway. I’ll eventually replace this with a shop-built wing that incorporates a router insert and a couple of legs for support. It works and It’s what I had on hand.
Close up of the base
The casters are mounted directly under the hinges. Here the saw is raised and is ready to be moved. There is plenty of room for the casters to swivel as needed, but I think I need to lower them an additional 1/2 to 3/4” to allow for more clearane when moving the base.
This has really taken a lot longer than I though it would, but it’s getting there.
-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.