103.23900 Jointer #3: Resetting the knives

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Blog entry by B4B posted 10-04-2014 06:20 AM 2731 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Together again Part 3 of 103.23900 Jointer series Part 4: Jointer Works »

I almost have this ready for full time use.

Today it took about 20 minutes to reset the blades, there are three of them, and 4 gibb screws per blade. I loosened one set at a time, and re-aligned them. I didn’t really need a jig or anything, I just used a straight edge, left enough clamping pressure on the blade so that I could move it with my hand, but not so loose that it would fall out. Set the height, re-tightened the screws, and move on to the next knife.

I had everything tightened down adequately (or so I thought). I took that 2×4 I was using earlier this week and passed it though. I have yet to check it with a straight edge, but eyeballing it, it seemed to be straight. The surface wasn’t glass smooth, but was fairly smooth, such that a light sanding would probably do the trick. It could also just be technique, I haven’t used jointers extensively, so I will need to hone in on my technique.

One minor snag, while I was testing this one of the blades flew out of the cutter head while I was running the 2×4 over it, and the blade got knicked when it was ejected from the cutter head.

I’m not to discounting the fact that a blade shot out of this jointer while spinning close to 4400 RPMs and it could have seriously injured me. Fortunately the 2×4 blocked the ejection from the top (was running it on edge in the middle of the table), and the knife hit the floor. I’m really glad I have that paddle switch, I was able to hit it with my knee while holding the 2×4 over the cutter head. It happened so fast that I didn’t even know what happened until the jointer was off and I could inspect what happened.

Tip for anyone else (should be common sense, but somehow I missed this one): When changing your blades or bits on any power tool, even if you think the mechanism holding it is secure, try to get it tighter (within the tool’s tolerances) with an extra 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Also use a quality tool that has with a good grip to tighten down the clamping mechanism.

So, now what’s left:
- Time to order a new set of blades, these should work
- Find someone to sharpen/hone the current set (I’ll check at a local place near me to see if they know of someone)
- Purchase/find a better hex wrench to get these screws nice and tight (taking suggestions, something like this would be able to get adequate tork/leverage).
- Build/find a blade guard (before next use)
- Build a belt guard
- Order 2 more paddle switches for my TS and RAS

I’m just going to run with the 1/3 HP motor for now. If I run into performance problems, I’ll re-evaluate at that time.

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.

2 comments so far

View GrandpaLen's profile


1651 posts in 2417 days

#1 posted 10-04-2014 01:58 PM

That was a startling image!! Glad you didn’t catch that missile.

Best Regards. – Grandpa Len
Work Safely and have Fun.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View Bogeyguy's profile


548 posts in 2212 days

#2 posted 10-04-2014 02:08 PM

Main point; Don’t use the joiner WITHOUT THE GUARDS IN PLACE!!!

-- Art, Pittsburgh.

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