"Art Box" Tutorial #7: Put a lid on it.

This style features a Full Recess with a lift off lid, as shown on the “Designer Boxes”
This is the easiest to do.Just cut the full recess and fit the lid as discussed in Chapter 5.
Then leap frog through the tutorial until we start discussing the shaping.

I know you have heard me say this when we were doing the corner splines,but this is very important and worth repeating.
Just be sure your inlay strips fit snug all the way to the bottom and tight against the sides.When you grind into them in the shaping phase you will expose any gaps.Putty will just show up later as the wood around it ages.

Alternate lid #2

This style is a Partial Recess and features “Soss” barrel hinges.This is the type of lid I used on the “Bad Moon Rising/Secret Box”.

Then using a bottom cutting router bit,set the height just shy of the bottom of the lip and carefully pare away the lip,stopping short of the kerfs you made at each end.The kerfs will ensure that the router doesnt tear out a chunk at the ends.

(If you should accidently go a little too deep,dont fret.Just reset your pattern bit and run another fast pass around the inside.)

I am using a spiral bit for this cut,but you can use the same pattern bit setup that you just cut the recess with.

I am very cautious,and dont get too close,I shave away the rest with a sharp chisel.

Last thing to do is very carefully even up the sides and bottom using a sanding block.

Now you can cut your lid to size and make a jig for doing the medallion.After that you can install your hinges.

Alternate lid #3
This style is the Full Recess with pin hinges.This is the type of lid featured on Rachels box and a few others.

Boring background info:

Set a fence 1 1/18’’ to 1 3/4’’ from the center of the bit.(The smaller diameter looks a little nicer when you open the box,but the larger pocket is easier to work with.I recommend the larger pocket on your first box)You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.

This is what I am using.
I have a 1 1/2’’ wide bit with a 3/4’’ bearing, making a 3/8’’ rabbet.We need a pocket that is a max of 2’’ wide.I am NOT talking diameter. We are not cutting half of a circle,but just an arc, as you can see in the following photo.(Remember, we are riding on the shoulder of the bearing.)

With the router turned off,raise the cutter up about 3/4’’ above the table.Turn your box upside down and center it over the bit.Slide the box back until it contacts the fence.Make sure the bit is NOT in contact with the box and turn it on.Slowly and firmly slide it to the left,and after it cuts into the wood,pull the box straight forward until the bearing stops the cut,then move the box to the right until it stops cutting,then move it back until the fence stops the cutting.Do this at a moderate pace.Too fast will risk chipping and too slow will cause burns.Its best to move like a robot,but dont stress about keeping the box aligned forward and backwards,the bearing is indexing the cut and the fence will stop the width of the pocket cut even if the box is a little skewed.And as long as you have a firm grip,there really is no worry about the box being grabbed by the router.Its a little unerving at first because you cant see whats going on.Thats why I recommend a test box…you will be more relaxed :-)

Next we will cut the pockets to a depth of 1 1/4’’ which will be the total depth of cut across the back.I do this in three passes,again stopping to clean out any chips between passes.
To clarify: We will end up with a rabbit on the front and down both sides which will be 1/2’’ deep,and a rabbit across the bach which is 3/4’’ deeper,for a total depth of 1 1/4’’.At each end of this deeper rabbit will be two arcs,or half round pockets to allow the lid to drop into and pivot.
It is really much easier to do than it sounds!!!!!

WARNING”