"Art Box" Tutorial #5: Cut the lip

At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.

DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!

For some, this may be the best option.They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.

For now,just follow along with the tutorial,and continue at your own pace.

I strongly recommend making a test box.You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.

Next
We want the top edge of the box sanded flat.I use my sanding platform,but stick some sandpaper sheets down and level it off.

What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table.Any bumps at the corner joints will transfer to the ledge we are routing down inside.Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.

Once the top edge of the box is smooth,remove and sawdust,etc from the inside of the box and the router table.

Next
We are going to route a rabbet,a lip,inside the box,all the way around.It will finish at 3/8’’ wide x 1/2’’ deep.

Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box.Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal,between box and lid, will really jump out.We do need a reveal for the lid to open,but it needs to be small and very even.
So,if you sand out a chip,or router burns,on the inside lip of the box,it makes a divot,meaning it becomes wider at that point.The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those “wide spots”.The more you sand out the inside edge to clean up chips and router burns,the more you change its shape,it becomes wavy,and unlikely your lid will fit evenly on all four sides.

So how can we do a nice job on this detail ?
I route the lip using shallow passes for the depth and the width.This will minimize chipping and burning.
I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8” wide.I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass,not worrying about the burn marks.I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2’’ depth,leaving about 1/16’’.I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8’’ width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2’’ depth.

”But I dont own a bearing set,all I have is the one on the pattern bit,how can I still do this?” Good question.

Tip
To leave just a little wood on the width cut to clean up on our final pass,try this trick. Figure where your guide bearing will ride on the inside of your box and run a band of masking tape horizontally on that line.Dont worry about a perfect fit in the corners,since the bearing doesnt reach into it completely.Tape is thin, so I use two layers,making sure they are pressed firmly together.When you are ready for the final pass,just pull off the tape and that will allow the bit to shave away the burn marks.
OR- You can use Formica panels,using double-stick tape to hold them in position for the bearing to ride on,this works great!

Tip:
On woods that are prone to tearout,like figured Maple,I dampen a rag and wipe down the area to be cut.Pay special attention to the inside corners.(This works very well when running wild grained woods through a planer too.)

Start
with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table.Use a medium high speed setting,if you have that option,and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction,(moving into the bit).After a complete pass around the bit,center the box over the bit and turn off the router.Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4” – 3/8” and repeat.Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of our total 1/2 depth.Last of all,change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2’’ deep,and make your final pass,moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit,etc…

Pattern Bit.

First pass.

Routing.

Final pass is pretty clean and is 3/8’’ wide and 1/2’’ deep.

Next
Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid.This will prevent denting as you test fit the lid… over and over.

Do not cut the lid to size until you are sure which type of box you are making!!!
Skip the following for now, and jump to Chapter #7 to read about lid/hinge configurations.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9871

The following information basically applies to fitting lids to all three styles of boxes.Just dont cut the lid to size until you are sure how it hinges,or if it will just lift out.This will become clearer as we proceed.

Regarding wood movement:

Depending on the wood you use,where you live,and your own personal experience,you may want to allow more clearance.

This is what works for me.

I really dont allow for any movement at this stage.I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me.Even if we start off with a snug fit,we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter.This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip.Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish.But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges,that its very easy to get a sloppy fit.This would allow the lid to move from side to side,which will just feel wrong,and the pins may show too much in the gap,and the handle may not drop straight into the seat,but might rub the sides on the way down.

The only time I have seen a problem was when one of my boxes was placed on a counter in the bathroom and over a few months the high humidity caused the lid to stick.Once removed from that room, it returned to normal,about two months later.

The (pin type hinged lid,Full Recess) and the (Lift Out lid) are identical in size and shape and how you fit them.

The (“Soss” barrel hinge or butt style hinged lid) is going to be wider and only two of the corners are radiused.

Now you can cut the lid to length and width and then shape the corners.

I cut the lid a little fat and ease into the final size.(I shape the corners only after I am satisfied with the fit.)
Obviously the lid wont drop into the recess yet,so I check the fit by lowering the edge of the end down into the rabbet and then testing the length by lowering in the edge of the side in the same manner,staying just out of the corners.I use a sanding block for final fitting,checking often.

Fitting the end.To aid with your test fitting,ease the bottom edge of the lid with sandpaper.But not too much!
(The deep rabbet visible on the left corner of the box will be explained shortly)

Next
Now to shape the corners.You can make a template from 1/4’’ masonite.Its less risky fitting this than your choice piece of wood.Get it to fit into the top of the box as perfectly as you can, and mount that to the lid blank with several strips of two sided tape or super glue.Then run that around your pattern bit.Remember to allow for sanding out burn marks and chips.It doesnt take much at all to end up with a sloppy lid.

Tip
I prefer to scribe the corners with a compass or a marking jig like this one and slowly remove the wood on a disc sander.(Less risk of tearout)
I leave the pencil line and ease into the fit using a palm sander with 220 grit.This finer grit ensures that I dont eat away the corner too quickly.I stop and test fit often and work only one corner at a time.I finish up the fit with a padded sanding block.

”Quick Corner” jig purchased at Woodcraft.

Shaping the corners.

The fitted lid.

Next time we will route out a recess for the medallion.

Thanks for reading,
Andy

-- " If I can make it,so can you" Andy in Oregon