After glueing in the medallion, I went ahead and sanded it flush with the lid. I did this to be sure it looked ok. I was worried about chipped out areas below the rim showing up after the sanding and it would be much easier to replace the panel at this stage before the entire box was shaped. It would make aligning the jig for recutting the recess less of a nightmare. But it looked fine.
The handle is a piece of cut off from the Maple medallion.
I simply slotted a mortise in it and the lid using a 1/8 bit in a table mounted router. I cut a strip of Maple just a wee bit thinner than the slot and pretested it until the handle fit to the body snugly. I marked a center line on both the lid and the handle for alignment.
Tip: make the slot about 3/4 shorter than the length of the rough handle, stopping about 3/8 short on both ends. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to align it with the lid. What I am getting at is this: You start off with a handle blank cut to the approximate length, but as you shape it prior to mounting it you may take more material off one end than the other, which means the center line has shifted. The shortened slot will give you room to shape the ends as needed. The floating tenon ( the thin slat that will join the handle to the lid) will need to be a bit shorter than the slot to allow the handle to slide side to side to center it with the lids center.
I need to mention again that some of the pictures and write up are a little out of order. Since this isnt a tutorial I am not trying very hard to lay out everything properly to build a box.
The hinges were cut in by router and finished by hand. I used Brusso 95 degree with the stop built in. They are $30 pair at WoodCraft, very nicely made. Be sure and buy some steel screws to set the hinges. I usually have them in and out a few times and the brass ones break too easy on the harder woods like this Bloodwood.
Here is a picture of the handle and the lid with a little more shaping.
I used 3/16 Maple ply for the dividers, cut slots as needed and fitted them to the box.
I needed a way to cover the raw edge of the plywood and decided to use Leopardwood. I cut kerfs in all four faces of a board to the thickness of the plywood and cut them apart on the bandsaw. The caps will add some interesting contrast, cover the edges and add some needed stability to the dividers.
The first photo shows the caps before they are cut completely free of the mother board (ha) You can see the little strip I left so I could use the table saw to cut most of the material away safely.
And here we have turned the H’s into U’s.
Here we have the caps in place as a test fit.
I will get these fitted better and then on to the shaping.
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Thanks for your help.
-- If I can do it, so can you.