"Art Box" Tutorial #10: Curves Ahead

This is the fun part!

Up to this point,everything we have done has been carefully layed out and measured.This phase is more free form,its where we can cut loose a little, and see what we get.But a little care must be used or we can wind up with a ruined box.That happened on occasion when I first started playing around with this concept a few years ago.Just go slow and you will be fine.

I like to mount my box to the “Moaning Stool”,to keep it from moving.This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top,front and both sides.To shape the back,I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.(The corner of a low bench would work as well.)

How I do this:
I cut a 3/4’’ piece of wood with a smooth face that will just insert into the bottom recess of the box.I then screw this to my stool and put a couple of strips of two-sided tape down.I set the box down over this base and press it onto the tape.
The lip formed by the recessed bottom,plus the tape,will prevent the box from shifting while you are pressing the grinder into it.

Like this...

OR…you can just run a screw through the bottom and into your bench.You can then pivot the box on that screw into a new position as needed.No doubt you will cover the inside with felt,or velvet anyway.You can then fill the hole on the bottom with putty,or place a smiley face sticker over it :-),or cover it with more felt.

Here,I have marked the location of the hinge pins and handle.Use care when shaping around these areas.Its very easy to remove too much wood,weakening the pins or cutting below the level of the handle.These areas do need to be profiled,blending them in with the overall shape,just be sure you are paying attention.

The grinder. Just a 4’’ angle grinder,guard removed,and a 5’’ flexible sanding disc.This is a 50 grit,but an 80 or 100 will work just fine,depending on the wood and how much it wants to gum up the paper.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND REMOVING THE GUARD OR MODIFYING THE GRINDER IN ANY WAY THAT WOULD MAKE ITS USE UNSAFE. There is my disclaimer :-) Seriously,just be careful!

You can use a random orbit disc sander from start to finish,though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement,at least to me.I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder,because it removes material faster,I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
You could also use a Dremel or a Foredom with different attachments.
Or the old fashioned tried and true tools,chisels and gouges are an option.
Even a stationary sander with a disc and belt will give nice results.

(I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the “Deco Box” I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)

What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you can get.Obviously,a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12’’ stationary sander.Feel free to use what you have,but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.

This photo shows how I have beveled the top, cutting away the edge of the medallion,down through the edge of the lid and to the lip of the box.This will give your box a dome shape.

The dome shape from the side.

If you want to play it safe with your box,you can stop here and get on with the finish sanding.Just smooth everything out, hit the corners and edges a little to soften them up and call it good.It will be a great looking box,just like this,with this “pillow” shape and the medallion.I really like the simplicity of this type of box!

Here is a detail of the handle area.Keep checking your progress by slipping the handle in and out.As you can see,it would be easy to cut down too far on the edge of the lid “behind” the handle,thus making a gap between the two.We will come back later and shape this portion of the lid closer to the profile of the handle using something with more control,like a pad sander or sanding blocks,etc…

On with the shaping.
I cant really tell you how I do this.Its more by feel than thought.The grain of the wood,what is exposed,what I want to express, or to remove,will determine what I do to some degree.Of course we are limited to the size of the box and the thickness of the wood itself.We need visualize the inside of the box as we start shaping.I can tell you from experience,that it is easy to get carried away when shaping and cut too deep in certain areas.

Tip:
The danger zones are: the medallion at the edges, the box lip,the hinge pins, the handle area,the back edge where the lid swings down into the box, and even the dado for the bottom is lurking just below the surface.
Once you grind through one of those areas,its pretty difficult to make a hidden repair.

I know that I have cautioned you on this before,but now is time to put it to use: Remember that you will be removing additional material as you go through all the final stages of finish sanding.This will also double the gap between the lid and the lip of the body.It is easy to end up with a sloppy lid if you dont keep this in mind.

Here is my initial rough shaping on this box, using the grinder to quickly remove the waste.

Next,I will start blending in these profiles,making a smooth transition from one curve to the next.I switch to a 5’’ random orbit sander for this phase.

-- " If I can make it,so can you" Andy in Oregon