I’m making a credenza based on a design (“Reflect storage”) by Soren Rose Studio I saw on a website (http://www.finnishdesignshop.fi/huonekalut-kirjahyllyt-reflect-lipasto-p-5098.html).
The drawer fronts are like propellers. I have never done anything similar, and lacking any instructions I decided to make them like this. I considered routing instead of table sawing the rough shape, but for some reason felt more comfortable with the saw. Please comment on possible easier ways, as this was quite laborious and I might want to make a slightly different chest with the same concept.
0) Figure out in Sketchup the shapes and dimensions. Then print them out on paper, cut to line and copy to the end of the already squared and otherwise right sized drawer fronts:
1) Build jigs for each of the six drawer fronts (I’m making the three columns each of different widths; 600 mm, 500 mm, 450 mm and as the bottom row is higher, none of the six fronts are of same size) to get the angle for cutting:
2) Start sawing away, and make sure I don’t cross the line as the drawer fronts are from one single board, and the grain pattern will be continuos across the six drawer fronts i.e. the whole front. No second chance here…
3) Grind out the majority of the waste, in my case with a round medium Holey Galahad:
4) Move on to hand tools – Shape with a pullshave so that the saw kerfs disappear, and continue right to the pencil line:
5) Smooth the surface with a card scraper:
6 – 23) Hand sand, scrape some more, sand to 120 grit, cover with Osmo Color clerar oil wax. I’m looking for a “soft” or satin finish, rather than a glassy shine – hence the last round with quite coarse sandpaper. I really like the Osmo Color product; direct translation from Finnish to English is “oil wax”, but I’m not sure how they label this in English markets.
Then repeat 5 times. My production line is pushing out about 2 fronts per day – 3 are now completely done, and the remaining three are partly done. In the meanwhile, I’m testing the fit, measuring and marking… I plan to attach “floating” wooden rails to the carcass, to which the Blum’s Tandembox metal drawer slides will be attached. I don’t want to screw them directly to the carcass, as the wood movement is front-to-back, and the metal slides have zero flexibility. Not the puritan way to use ready made drawers, but hey – This is just a hobby, and I just made one drawer with wooden drawers: I realized I wouldn’t be able to complete this one within the time I have available before starting in my new job.
I’m shooting for a finished credenza by new years eve, at which time we’ll be having guests – hopefully noticing a continuous grain patterned weirdly shaped credenza in our living room… I’ll be posting the project if and when finished.
Comments, feedback and (constructive) criticism welcome – not so much for the design as it is not my own, but for the work method I chose to implement the design. As mentioned, it is a first for me – I started woodworking as a more serious hobby about a year ago. I find myself picking a more challenging project each time (my next main project is supposed to be a Maloof inspired chair…). I have noticed that once I realize I can do a particular project (in this case the realization came after completing the first drawer front successfully), I tend to lose some of the interest and start looking already towards the next project…
This happened also with my previous project, which is still waiting the final sanding and Osmo treatment in the background of this new credenza: