First Planes Restore #2: Progress on the Defiance

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Blog entry by AnthonyReed posted 10-09-2011 07:52 PM 7621 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Beginning state of my first two planes Part 2 of First Planes Restore series no next part

Defiance after a bath in Evapo-Rust (gotta love that stuff)

Problem area.

I gave it a bath in Evapo-Rust. Flattened then smoothed the working end of the chipbreaker/cap iron. Removed the the chips from the blade and rough-honed the primary bevel and made the initial effort to lap/flatten the back. The back of the blade looks as though it might have been lightly hit with a grinder (or something similar) and it is requiring a lot of lapping to remove the marks, i might need some advice about this in the future as i am not sure what can be done about it.

The frog is where i am having my current issue… first off all the contact surfaces of it were painted including the body itself where the frog seats (picture #2). Did they actually produce them that way?. The frog does not even touch the the plane body near the mouth. Once the frog screws are loosened it will rock back and forth (toe to heel). So I flattened the surfaces on the frog, top and bottom. I used spray adhesive and attached small strips of 120 grit paper to the bottom contact points of the frog, put it in place slid it back and forth. This has helped in solidifying how it seats but has not completely resolved the issue. I am apprehensive to take this too far because i do not know if it might cause a problem somewhere else i am not aware of. Does anyone have any opinions or tips they can give me about this?

Side Note: I think i made a horrible error, I purchased an accurate 24” straight edge. Now the granite counter top tailing i was using for lapping is no longer flat, neither is the piece of float glass i bought. I wonder if they make ‘B’ grade granite surface plates in 6”x24”x3” dimensions ….
Man, this is bad!

Thanks for reading,


-- ~Tony

4 comments so far

View ksSlim's profile


1276 posts in 2914 days

#1 posted 10-09-2011 10:13 PM

surface plates are normally 9×12, 18, 24, etc 6 in increments.
Wider plates are also available. 36”x36”’x24” thick is considered an inspection table.
2 inch thickness are available, but 3 inch thickness and up are more common.
You might recheck the certification of your straight edge.
Pencil lines are too wide for an accurate test of a straight edge.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

View AnthonyReed's profile


9755 posts in 2464 days

#2 posted 10-13-2011 05:23 AM

I am fairly sure that the straight edge is flat i checked it on the table saw and on the surface plate i broke down and purchased from woodcraft. The edge is dead flat on each. My thought was that if i had not got the straight edge i would have remained perfectly content with the tailing/glass i was using prior… i was just attempting to make a joke about how easily i get carried away with things.

Thank you much for the info ksSlim. i appreciate it.


-- ~Tony

View RGtools's profile


3372 posts in 2678 days

#3 posted 12-16-2011 03:11 AM

What you need is valve grinding compound. Secure the body to your bench and apply the paste to the points of contact between the frog and the body, move the frog back and forth on these contact points. Once you have even grind marks you have a proper mating surface. Wash the paste off thoroughly and re-oil.

-- Make furniture that lasts as long as the tree - Ryan

View AnthonyReed's profile


9755 posts in 2464 days

#4 posted 12-16-2011 06:32 AM

Ohhh! i have not heard of that trick. Thank you RG i will give it a try.

-- ~Tony

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