Moving forward with the saw restoration..
The original tote on this saw is usable but ugly and pretty beat up so a new one is in order. TGIAG to the rescue!
I have some slightly thicker than 4/4 African Mahogany on hand and it should make for a fine looking handle so why the heck not.
The next few pics will be a “well duh” series for some of you but I have seen some questions asked around the forums about dimensioning wood with handplanes and I figured this was as good an example as any other. So if you already have a handle on this.. you can skip ahead a bit if you’d like.
The piece I have measures just slightly thicker than 1” and I need it to be closer to 7/8” for the handle.
First step is to plane a flat registration face. Don’t worry about final thickness here we just want a flat face to measure from.
First plane a slight bevel on the front and back of the wood to prevent blowout and get your jack out and scrub across the grain till you are getting full width shavings from it (now “full width shavings is a bit of a misnomer. The shavings won’t stay together cross grain but you can hear it cutting the full width.)
This ensures the board is flat from side to side. Now we go at it from the diagonals to get it flat from corner to corner.
Again once you get a full shaving on each stroke across the board your good.
Now.. straight down the grain to get it finally flat.
Then I like to hit it with a smoother to get it nice and shiney.. over kill maybe but why not right?
Now measuring from this face mark your desired final thickness all the way around the board.
Then this time when you plane a bevel on the front and back side take it all the way down to your line. This will give you a visual indication of when you have it thicknessed correctly without chasing your tail measuring every few strokes.
Now go about it just as you did flattening the other face keeping an eye on your bevel. You want it to disappear as close to the end of the process as possible so you don’t over shoot your mark.
And then you should have a correctly dimensioned board and a happy pile of shavings when you are done!
Next was to cut out the handle..
Notice how I left the area where the blade enters square(ish)... I have found it is easier to cut the slot when the faces are flat than when they are rounded.
Then we mark half way and cut the kerfs
Then I finished the cut with a saw who’s kerf closest matched the thickness of the blade.
Finish cutting it out and then we will start on the mortise for the back..
I had some help for this part today..
Annnnnd it fits!
Now to figure out how to mark the holes in an existing sawplate onto a new handle and we can start shaping this bad boy!
More to come and again thanks for reading!
-- Eric - "I'm getting proficient with these hand jobbers. - BigRedKnothead"