Workbench Build #12: First real issue.. Suggestions needed

I can’t help you with the skirt questions as mine doesn’t have one.

I would get some different lumber for your legs/base…That stuff looks kind of shoddy and unstable, sorry to hear about it. Use it like you said and make some saw horses or something.

Alternate the end grain like so ()()()(), not )))))). That way if it has a tendency to cup it will hopefully help to offset, although with that much lumber and glue I wouldn’t foresee any problems. Although I cared less about end grain orientation and more so about which side of the board was showing on the top and how the adjacent pieces fit together dry.

Best wishes

-- Grant - S/N Dakota

That bench is AWESOME! OK, now I am less concerned with the skirt/end cap size and now just need to figure out what to build the base out of now. I would like to keep it from the available stuff at HD since it is right there and it won’t cost too much (I have already spent more on this than I had originally planned to).

Anyone know wtf kind of tree “Common Whitewood” comes from?

-- Eric - Why buy when you can build!?!

Okay, I’ll (respectfully) endorse what you have as being fine for the legs. Pick the best two for the fronts, and move on. I see lumber that has all the integrity needed for bench legs… Clean it up with a smoother and go!

More input (but do what you want!!!)

Aprons needed? Zero. Endcaps? Only considered with a wagon vice.

Thickness of top? Just under 3” is what I have, with no issue. 6’ long, 24” deep.

!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

And Grant has a bench that ROCKS, btw…

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

Agree w/ Smitty. If you need to repair a crack or a split you can fill it with epoxy or patch it w/ wood (dutchman or butterfly, for example.)

Thanks for the help guys. The only problem I have with using these is that 3 of the 4 of them are usable but the one pictured with the hole/crack is a void that runs almost the entire length of the leg and neither end is suitable for use as a tenon filled with epoxy or not.

I think what I am going to do is pick up 1 more of these and replace this leg. Thanks for the boost of confidence. I was feeling slightly kicked in the nuts when I found that guy lol.

-- Eric - Why buy when you can build!?!

Smitty, these guys are also correct, if you want you could fill the voids or pick your best faces and use them for the front. I definitely considered all 4 faces of each leg and decided which side that I wanted to show off. Personally I wouldn’t want to fuss with filling them and just get pick out some new ones. Not that any of us are made of money but the common “whitewood” (which I have no idea which tree it comes from) isn’t to terrible in price and to reiterate what you said you can use the “bad” ones for other things.

I have had good results with JB Weld Wood Epoxy from Menards. It is a 2:1 mix ratio and it is super penetrating. So that is good and bad, you know that it will get a great bond but if you think that there is even the slightest chance if it finding it’s way out on the other side (i.e. knots, hairline cracks) just do yourself a favor and throw some masking tape over it. Another con is that it really does take 24 hours to set and be able to sand. Also, it is so penetrating that even if you overfill a void when you come back the next day the surface of the epoxy will probably be lower than the surface of the wood (concave rather than convex) and will require another touch up. I’ve never had to do more than two applications. It dries crystal clear and sands (with some effort) well. I should probably do a review on this stuff because I have never been able to find any other reviews on this product, it might be fairly new..

Let us know what you decide!

-- Grant - S/N Dakota

ever thought of laminating two 2×4’s instead? The Home center around me has junk 2×4 but I was able to get a few 2×12’s that were clear of any knots, and used them for my bench top, clean vertical grain.

depends on what your plans are for this workbench – are you just throwing something together – then simply use what you have, it should hold up fine. you should joint and plane the edges which will crisp them up a tad, but you’ll still have those cracks most likely (depending how deep they go). OR , are you building a heirloom workbench – in which case do it once, and do it right – get some new boards. laminating is a good way to go.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

I think I have a path to go in now. I am probably going to go have a look at some 2Xsomethings at HD and if I don’t see anything there I’ll stop by the yard I got the oak from and see what they have there.

PurpLev, I am hoping to get close to heirloom quality on this (though my skills may have other ideas lol) My wife and I are expecting our first child A SON! insert a Tim the tool man Taylor grunt here and while I have never inherited anything from my parents I would like to be able to hand this down to him eventually. I like your thoughts on that and you are right.. I need to do it right once and that will save me money and headaches in the long run.

-- Eric - Why buy when you can build!?!

Grant,
I’ll be watching for that review on the JB weld.

-- Natalie - My mind is like a bad neighborhood, I don't like to go there alone.