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Drill Press Hold Downs #4: Light at the end of the tunnel and new challanges

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Blog entry by Airframer posted 546 days ago 1536 reads 1 time favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: The Scroll Saw Learning Curve... Part 4 of Drill Press Hold Downs series no next part

I was finally able to get the clamps finished up and ready for use. All that is left now is to install the threaded holes they will thread into for clamping.

I did a simple stain and poly on the clamps themselves to match the rest of the wood on the table. I had hoped the layers of wood would be more pronounced on them but oh well they are a tool not a show piece right?

After that was dry I used some Plasti Dip like the ones I was using for inspiration to help provide some grip and also since these will be used on painted aluminum enclosures most of the time it will help prevent marring the finish or the aluminum which is pretty soft.

That was an interesting process. Once dipped the stuff likes to blob off in whatever direction is pointing down do figuring out how to hang these to dry without screwing up the coat was fun. I ended up dipping and then quickly holding them in front of a space heater I have in the garage to “set” the outside layer so I could hang them up over night.

This morning I found a few LARGE drips (rubber stalactites) hanging from them and did my best to trim them with a razor blade without cutting through to the wood. After that exercise in frustration was done I am satisfied with the final result.

Now the new challenge… I need to add the threaded holes for these to screw into during use. I used a variety of enclosure sizes to try and find where the best spots for the holes should be and have found all the “good” spots to be right above the metal portion of the original table. I’ll have to think on this one a bit and I’ll post updates once I find a solution.

I am beginning to see that my table design is going to wear out it’s usefulness very quickly. So one solution may be to scrap that and start over which is kinda bitter sweet. I was awfully proud of my handy work with that. It was my first project and I (believe it or not) spent a lot of time on it. However I am just running into one issue after another based on the design of it and the lack of tracks.

Again.. more updates to come on that.

Here are some pics for today. The last few deal with the positioning conundrum… any ideas on that one would be VERY appreciated!

-- Eric - http://theidiotgaloot.com



9 comments so far

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

12919 posts in 1274 days


#1 posted 546 days ago

Can you route a dado in the top for t-Tracks???

BTW: The hold downs look GREAT!!! Nice addition of the plasti-dip!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View Airframer's profile

Airframer

2287 posts in 552 days


#2 posted 546 days ago

I could, I think. However if I was going to go that route I think I’d start fresh instead of trying to retro fit them. I will probably go that route anyways. I like the table but the short comings are really nagging me and I KNOW I could make it better.

-- Eric - http://theidiotgaloot.com

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

795 posts in 710 days


#3 posted 546 days ago

That is a great idea for making your own hold downs.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View Richforever's profile

Richforever

739 posts in 2319 days


#4 posted 546 days ago

Wow! Beautiful work!
Since you are the “hold down expert”, I have a problem that eludes me. My bench top mortising machine hold down does not work, and I’ve been trying to figure out how to make a hold down for it. The distance between the table and the chisel is about 4 1/2” and would vary with the size of the wood being mortised. So far, I just have to hammer the piece off the chisel with a rubber mallet – a real pain.
Seems like the hold down would have to be very flexible and the piece being worked on would have to slide under it. The hold down would also have to be close to the chisel to maximize effectiveness. Any suggestions?

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

View Airframer's profile

Airframer

2287 posts in 552 days


#5 posted 543 days ago

Thanks Rich!

I would never call myself the expert at anything. I based these on a plan linked from a completed project here so wasn’t much designing on my part. As for your issue.. perhaps if I could see a picture of the problem I still might be able to come up with a solution.

-- Eric - http://theidiotgaloot.com

View Richforever's profile

Richforever

739 posts in 2319 days


#6 posted 541 days ago

This is an attempt to post pictures of the hold down situation.

[IMG]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll45/Richpics_album/IMG_0328_zps2c1c6c1a.jpg[/IMG]
ready to mortise

[IMG]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll45/Richpics_album/IMG_0330_zps5d6fcf1d.jpg[/IMG]
making the mortise

[IMG]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll45/Richpics_album/IMG_0329_zps556b90c9.jpg[/IMG]
hold down being pulled out

There is only a little threaded hex nut in the back of the hole for the hold down post. It is only a friction fit with no opening in the post. There is not enough room under the table for a clamp. A rubber mallet seems to be the current mode of operation. It’s making doing mortises by hand better all the time.

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

View Richforever's profile

Richforever

739 posts in 2319 days


#7 posted 541 days ago

This is an attempt to post pictures of the hold down situation.


ready to mortise


making the mortise


hold down pulling out

There is only a little hex nut in the hole that contacts the backside of the post, with only a friction fit. There is not enough room under the table for a regular clamp to fit. I think others on this site have had the same troubles with mortising machines.

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

View Airframer's profile

Airframer

2287 posts in 552 days


#8 posted 540 days ago

I think I have a simple fix for that but quick question first.. is the board attached to the fence a permanent addition?

If it is you can simply drill a hole just to the right and left of the adjustable claw portion of the hold down and using T-nuts installed on the bottom side of the fence board thread a couple threaded rods into the holes and T-Nuts. Then you can add a cross bar of either steel or even hardwood and 2 spin knobs to cinch it down.

Here is a very crude rendering of what I am talking about.

-- Eric - http://theidiotgaloot.com

View Richforever's profile

Richforever

739 posts in 2319 days


#9 posted 540 days ago

Airframer, thanks! It’s now on my project list. (Better than anything I had come up with.)

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

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