Finally got started on my first non-shop project. The plans are here . Except I’m not using screws, but making these modifications:
Dados for the shelves
a locked tongue & groove for the top of the wide side
through mortise & tenon for top and bottom of the narrow side – the lower tenon will protrude and extra 1/2” to become on of the feet
Yesterday i got the dimensioning done:
and while most of the time i didn’t have much difference in the lumber to choose from, I was able to get a nearly quartersawn section for the narrow side, which is the unique part of the design and will be the most visible and eye-catching:
note – it’s right on top of another wider board.
Although I sized everything a 1/16th over in order to have room for finishing up with the router-jointer and hardplanes later, I did encounter a problem ripcutting those “long” 8’ boards in my shop. I clamped both sides of the board into the crosscut sled, but because of their width (12”) and weight, they would still shift slightly through the cut, making the cut just slightly uneven – not enough to matter in the long run, since i gave myself the extra room, but annoying nonetheless. First I thought the sled was out of square, but after checking that it wasnt i realized the problem. I was clamping to the front fence on the sled (what I call the front fence – the one closest to the front of the table saw). I realized only after I was done that switching a quick clamp around to act as an expander between the board and rear fence might be better:
the board in the photo is short, but I was doing things like having 5’ hanging off the right side! anyway, the clamp on the right is what i was doing. I believe that this allows the board to spin clockwise through the cut – and this is what the board naturally wants to do, so the clamping isnt terribly effective. Getting in really close to the kerf is key – this prevents that clockwise motion – and that’s really only possible by using a quick clamp in reverse in that distance between the rear fence and the boad… as shown on the left. I’m pretty sure this will work and I’ll try it next time i have to crosscut long pieces.
One weird observation – when i was making the long ripcuts, I saw burning on the waste sections, but not on the non-waste sections. i think this is weird… i mean, i was using featherboards, but there was plenty of room and it didnt seem like anything was binding against the blade. oh well, not a problem really, but i’d like to figure out why.