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5 Knives #3: Preparing the blanks

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Blog entry by AJM posted 09-15-2012 09:14 AM 1063 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Planning planning planning. Part 3 of 5 Knives series Part 4: handle and colouring »

Here are a few photo’s of how i prepared 2 of the blanks although the stainless steal blank broke the m6 die.
hopefully i have a solution to this and it will no longer be an issue on the other 2 ss blanks.

With the carbon blade i die’d the end first to fit an m6 nut. i use this to help keep the knife clamped together.

I have heard stories of the epoxy lasting a few years and the knife then simply putting it . fall apart. i feel the nut at the end is a good way of helping this not to happen.
Roughed the surface on my grinder this can most certainly be done with a file. but the grinding stone is alot faster method. roughing and notching the surface again gives something for the wood and epoxy to adhere to again helping the life of the handle.

while rumaging through the work shop i found a piece of birch i used earlier in the fishing season. I have cut these in to varying lenghs and took the bark off of a couple of pieces so i can get a hint of the colour of the wood.

My solution for the stainless steel did not work. can any one recommend a die for stainless steal i could use?

-- Englishman in Finland I am guessing that i am Finglish.



3 comments so far

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AJM

86 posts in 842 days


#1 posted 09-15-2012 10:29 AM

Went to the local hardware shop. He does not think i can tap/die the stainless.. I blought a new DIe lets see if i can put some thread on it….
Had another try. no luck teeth just go bang with an orange flash. i guess i will google how to do it. or finish it a different way. (series of “v” shapes and hope the epoxy holds.)

-- Englishman in Finland I am guessing that i am Finglish.

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IsaacH

128 posts in 819 days


#2 posted 09-15-2012 04:17 PM

Stainless really needs to be threaded on a lathe. Depending on the type of stainless you are using you might try to use a propane or mapp gas torch to remove the temper from the end of the tang. If you hold the rest of the tang and the blade in a metal vise, it will act as a heat sink and you should be able to keep from losing the temper in the rest of the knife. once its been softened (after cooling of course) you might be able to thread it, provided you use plenty of cutting oil.

-- Isaac- Decatur, GA - "Your woodworking....NOT machining parts for NASA!!!"

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AJM

86 posts in 842 days


#3 posted 09-15-2012 06:35 PM

thanks isaacH

I think due to lack of knowledge. I will do the carbons with a nut and a more traditonal handle on the stainless with copious amounts of epoxy

-- Englishman in Finland I am guessing that i am Finglish.

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