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08-10-2016 01:49 PM

Veneered mdf for built-in cabinets? - 8 replies

I recently picked up six full sheets of walnut-veneered 1/2” mdf for about $100. I’m thinking of using them to make built-in base cabinets in my living room. Since mdf isn’t as long-term durable as plywood, I was wondering if anyone had advice on the best way to build these things to last. E.g. – Can I get away with ...

08-01-2016 07:16 PM

Router collet nut stuck - 5 replies

I’ve got a Triton TRA001 3.25 hp table-mounted router, and somehow the 1/2” collet nut became completely stuck on the shaft. The last two times I changed bits, the collet nut was harder than usual to release – I had to use the wrench for the entire process, instead of my fingers. I thought the problem might have been dust o...

07-28-2016 07:25 PM

Best way to execute an edge miter joint for plywood carcase? - 39 replies

I’m going to be building two bookcases for my kids’ room – each 5’H x 3’W x 1’D – to match their Charles Webb bed set. Charles Webb furniture typically uses mitered edge joints for carcases, like this: My challenge is, I’m working with oak-veneered plywood instead of solid oak. Mea...

11-20-2015 03:00 PM

Wixey Remote Digital Reader - compatible with TRA001? - 1 reply

Does anyone know if this: is compatible with this: I really like my TRA001, because it’s a beast and its original base is a good facsimile of a router lift. I’d like to attach the Wixey digital height gauge...

11-18-2015 07:09 PM

Fixing wobbly breadboard end - 6 replies

I’m building a paneled blanket chest (redwood panels, cherry frames), and took my first stab at breadboard ends for the lid. The lid is about 26” front-to-back; I used a single mortise and tenon, glued it for about 6-8” in the middle (with a dowel glued in place too), and put dowels through elongated holes in the tenon on each...

04-08-2015 03:23 PM

How to attach this shelf set to wall? - 15 replies

I’m building a set of wall shelves consisting of a vertical walnut support with three cherry shelves notched into it. The vertical support is roughly 2” x 4” x 36”, and each shelf will be roughly .75” x 5.5” x 20-30”. The layout will look similar to this, but with only three wider, slightly staggered s...

03-27-2015 02:07 PM

Can I bore a bunch of holes in my joists for clamp storage? - 13 replies

My small shop is in the lower level of my house, underneath the kitchen. The ceiling is exposed joists. Currently, I’ve been hanging my bar clamps over my workbench with racks screwed to the joists, which you can kind of see in these pictures: It occurred to me that I could pack more clamps into the same amount of space if I h...

03-18-2015 05:24 PM

Please tell me what sprayer to buy for general-purpose (non-paint) finishing! - 24 replies

I really want to get a nice, compact handheld sprayer to use for finishing projects of varying sizes, short of what I’d use my Harbor Freight airless sprayer on (the Graco X-5 knockoff) – things like jewelry boxes, end tables, benches, desks, etc. Sometimes I paint my projects, but I finish the majority with lacquer, shellac, varnis...

03-09-2015 03:18 PM

"Minimalist" small-shop setup for HF dust collector with separator? - 17 replies

In my 11×17 shop, I use a Harbor Freight 2hp dust collector with a good-enough Rockler separator attached to a 55 gallon drum. The entire thing is on a rolling cart nestled in the corner of my shop by my workbench. It only takes up about 2’x4’ of floor space, but with the size of my shop literally every square foot is importan...

02-13-2015 03:23 PM

My solution for benchtop tool dust collection - 3 replies

My shop is tiny – 11’x17’ – but I still manage to pack in a 2hp HF dust collector and a 12 gallon wet/dry vac, both hooked up to separators. Unfortunately, my setup does not lend itself well to collecting dust from handheld/workbench tools – such as sanders, routers, Kreg Jig, etc. Choking the vac down to 1.25R...

02-03-2015 06:52 PM

Help popping curly maple? (Chatoyance effect?) - 22 replies

I’m making a solid curly maple desk, and I’m wondering how best to pop the chatoyance – that shimmering, holographic quality you can get with curly woods. Currently I’ve given it two coats of transtint dye (sanding the first coat back to accentuate the contrast with the second coat) and then added two coats of BLO, letti...

01-26-2015 05:38 PM

Good DIY jigs for T-track table? - 0 replies

I broke down and picked up a Rockler T-track table on sale over the weekend. So far, it seems pretty rad – it’s plenty big with three horizontal and two vertical spans of T-track. I already have a number of basic vertical hold-downs for it – four of the curved aluminum Incra/Rockler style hold-downs, and four toggle clamps mo...

01-15-2015 08:07 PM

Question re: venting DC outside - 8 replies

I’ve got a Harbor Freight dust collector with a 50-gallon simple separator (just the basic Rockler kit). I’ve been thinking of venting it under my deck (outside the shop) rather than into the bag/filter, boring a hole in my cinder block wall and running out a PVC pipe with some sort of hood. Assuming I keep a window open to avoid p...

01-14-2015 04:45 PM

Fixing base trim corners on a not perfectly square base? - 1 reply

I’m building a frame-and-panel maple desk using curly maple for the desktop and panels, hard maple for the face frames, and curly maple for the trim elements. I made the base trim by ripping some 3” wide curly maple to about 1/4” thick, and then cutting a very slight bevel on it with the table saw (like you’d do for a ra...

01-08-2015 07:14 PM

Drilling through table saw wing to make router table? - 9 replies

I have a Grizzly 1023RL, with the tabletop from a Bosch RA1181 router table bolted in place of the right wing. This tabletop isn’t perfectly flat, and I was thinking about replacing it with the router table designed for the 1023RL – this one: Looking at t...

01-06-2015 06:56 PM

Fixing slop in stub tenon/rail and stile joint - 5 replies

I’m making a set of flat panels (maple frames with curly maple panels) and it looks like I miscut my stub tenons in the rails – some of them have as much as 1/16” slop, but only on one side. This means that when I fit the rails and stiles together and then force the tenon to the front of the groove, the pieces mate properly. ...

01-05-2015 06:35 PM

Craftsman 119.224000 bandsaw motor pulley problem - 23 replies

I picked up a Craftsman 12” bandsaw, model 119.224000, in excellent condition for $100. After installing a new Timber Wolf blade it was working great for a while, then suddenly it started making a racket and then froze up. I checked the bottom compartment and discovered that the pulley on the motor shaft had come loose and was rubbing/lo...

12-16-2014 03:18 PM

Free cast iron table saw in Minneapolis, apparently in decent condition - 4 replies

I have no idea what the build quality is like, but this caught my eye – a Toro(!) 8” table saw circa 1945, available for free in the Twin Cities. If anyone from LJ decides to pick this thing up, please let us know how it turns out!

12-10-2014 05:25 PM

Tips for drilling mounting holes in aluminum router plate? - 3 replies

I’ve got a Bosch RA1181 router table with stock aluminum mounting plate and I need to mount a Triton TRA001 3.25 hp router. The odd size of the Bosch plate looks like it would prohibit using a third-party plate, so I think I’ll have to drill out new holes since the TRA001 does not appear to be one of the many routers accommodated by...

12-03-2014 07:29 PM

Bosch 1617 height adjustment issue - 22 replies

I’m having a problem with the height adjustment on my table-mounted Bosch 1617. Once I have the base set in one of the three detents on the motor, the motor can slide freely up and down within a range of about an inch. But when I turn the microadjust knob, the motor doesn’t seem to raise or lower and I can’t figure out why. ...

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