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|4 days ago||
I’m almost done insulating my workshop to minimize sound transferrance. I’m working on a standard framed interior wall with paneling on the non-shop side (a family room) and open studs on the shop side. Eventually, I’m going to replace the family room paneling with drywall. For soundproofing, I put two layers of pre-cut st...
|13 days ago||
Workshop sheeting/soundproofing - 15 replies
I’m setting up shop in a 12’ by 18’ space created by walling off a section of my laundry room, and I’m looking at sheeting the 18’ wall which is shared by the family room. The shop wall is currently unsheeted, i.e., I’m looking directly at the wall studs and the back of the family room paneling (it’s no...
|34 days ago||
R4512 Fence Upgrade - 6 replies
I know that others have posted questions about upgrading the R4512 fence and I have tried to review those threads, so I apologize if this has been covered and I overlooked it. My question is: what is the best option for upgrading the R4512 fence with minimal modification? I’m not 100% confident in my ability to accurately drill, tap, o...
|82 days ago||
Bowed boards for 1/2" cedar panel? - 4 replies
I’m making a frame-and-panel cedar chest, using a bunch of scrap cedar I picked up almost for free – about 40 or so 4’ planks, 5/8” x 6”. My plan is to plane them down to 1/2” and glue them for panels – roughly 3.5’ x 2’ for the front/back, 2’ x 2’ for the sides. The planks were...
|155 days ago||
Box joint question - 10 replies
I’m making a cedar chest and I’m thinking of trying something new for the joinery. I have a lot of 1×3- and 1×4 boards sitting around. Could I rip them all to uniform width (say, 2.5”) and stagger them during glue up to make panels with “pre-made” fingers for box joints? I’d make the fingers abou...
|159 days ago||
Running knotty cedar through planer? - 15 replies
A few months ago I made a cedar chest entirely from Home Depot cull bin cedar – the kind that tends to be very knotty with one rough face (for aesthetics I think). It was a fun project, with one annoyance: it took forever to sand the panels smooth, with one pass with the belt sander and several with the ROS. But considering I made a ches...
|222 days ago||
Biscuit joiner for spline cuts? - 3 replies
I’m making a bunch of picture frames and I was thinking of putting splines in the corners for decoration. Obviously, it would be easy enough to build a table saw jig for cutting the slots, but I was wondering – can this be done with a biscuit joiner? Anyone tried it? Edit: I was thinking it would be pretty easy to make something...
|224 days ago||
Used DW734 - fair value? - 28 replies
I have a friend selling her dad’s DW734 planer. I think it’s only been used a few time, so it should be in very good condition. I know this model retails for $399 at Home Depot, but my local Home Depot routinely honors the Harbor Freight 20% Off coupon, so really I could get a new one for $320 plus tax. It also sells on Amazon for...
|236 days ago||
Router bearing for MLCS 8377 rabbet bit? - 2 replies
I need to put a 1/8” rabbet on the inside edge of some picture frames I’m making. The frames are already assembled, so I need to use a rabbet bit with bearing. I have a rabbet bit from the MLCS 8377 bit set (http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1351256878&sr=8-2...
|243 days ago||
Belt sander flattening jig? - 4 replies
Like many of you, I’ve made a slab flattening router jig – a carriage for the router, which slides along rails to put a flat face on a workpiece. I was wondering – has anyone ever made (or even seen) something similar for a belt sander? Like, a way to mount a belt sander over a bed at a fixed height, and slide it up and down ...
|250 days ago||
Cedar chest - wood movement? - 2 replies
I’m making a cedar chest from scrap wood I rescued from the Home Depot cull bin. Obviously this isn’t the best quality wood, but on the other hand I can make a 18×16x34 chest for about $20 worth of wood – and as you can see it cleaned up pretty nicely, with some TLC. I’m using 1×4 planks, edge jointed on the t...
|273 days ago||
"Medalist podium" boxes - 1 reply
A friend has enlisted my help to make standing podiums for race medalists – i.e., those boxes that Gold, Silver, and Bronze medalists stand on. They can be very simple, and he plans to paint them, so we’re just using basic plywood. The bottom of each box will be open, because they nest inside each other for transport. My questio...
|293 days ago||
Dowel pins after glue-up? - 7 replies
I’m making a simple box to hold some cutting boards. It needed to be a cheap and fast project, so I used scrap plywood with rabbet joints. It seems sturdy enough, but the joints are not perfect and in some places the plywood is gappy, so I’d like to do something to reinforce it. The box itself is really narrow – about 3̶...
|298 days ago||
Bosch 1617 switch solution? - 7 replies
I have the Bosch 1617 (fixed base) mounted in my Bosch router table. Based on many reviews, it appears this router model has a major problem with sawdust getting inside the on/off switch and damaging it. In order to prevent this, I used duct tape to secure some thick plastic wrap over the switch. Is there any reason this is a bad idea? It seems ...
|298 days ago||
R4512 onboard storage and fold-up outfeed. - 2 replies
Honestly, I almost considered this too obvious to warrant posting, but considering the popularity of the R4512 table saw I figured I might as well. The right rail of the R4512 has three pre-drilled holes which – combined with three long bolts – lend themselves to some very helpful onboard storage. I put bolts through those holes, l...