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home made over arm dust collection #1: Assembly instructions for my over arm dust collection.

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Blog entry by ABrown posted 08-15-2010 04:57 AM 3641 reads 7 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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Bear with me this is my first blog. I’ve had a few comments on my homemade over arm dust collection on my Ridgid tablesaw. First off I’ll tell you why I made it, I was just plain tired of being covered up with saw dust when I used the saw. Now I’ll tell you how I made it and give you some part #’s in case you want to make one for yourself.

Here’s parts you will need:
One T-connetor Rockler#88527
I had some 4” flex hose laying around, in case you don’t Rockler#22791
2’ of 1 1/4” hose came from a dead shop vac, sorry no #
4” to 2 1/4” reducer Rockler#23486
1 1/4” to 2 1/4” reducer Rockler#26967
7- 4” hose clamps Rockler#64528
1- 1 1/4” hose clamp sorry no #
3- 4” 90°Galvanized Elbow Lowes#36400
3- 4” x 24” Galvanized Pipe Lowes#36395
1- roll of metal straping

And now assembly:
I started with the 4” dust port on the saw, attach the uncrimped end of the 90° elbow to the dust port with a 4” hose clamp attach one of the 4’‘x24’’ pipes to the crimped end of the 90° with a 4’’ hose clamp rotate the elbow and pipe assembly so that it faces the right side of the saw. Add another 90° face it stright up attach with a 4” hose clamp cut a 8” peice of 4” flex hose and attach to the crimped end of the 90° attach the other end to the t-connector with a 4’’ hose clamp. Cut a 6” peice of 4” flex hose and attach to the top of the t-connector with a 4” hose clamp. Attach the other end the crimped end of a 4’‘x24” pipe with a 4” hose clamp. Attach the last 90° to the uncrimped end of the pipe. Attach the last peice of 4’‘x24’’ pipe with a 4’’ hose clamp. Insert the 4’’ to 2 1/4’’ reducer into the uncrimped end of the pipe and attach with a 4’’ hose clamp. Attach the 2 1/4’’ to 1 1/4’’ reducer to the other reducer with tape. And finnaly attach the 1 1/4’’ hose with a 1 1/4’’ hose clamp.
I attached the whole assembly to my saw’s tableboard with the metal straping, If you don’t have a table board you will have to find another way to attach it to your saw.
Now you will need to bore a 1 1/4’’ hole in your blade guard I used a 1 1/4’’ hole saw to do it. I put the hole in front of the blade on the guard. After the hole is compleated I cut half way through the the 1 1/4’’ hose and a length of about an 1 1/4’’. Then push the hose in to the guard and down until it touches the insert on the saw. Connect your dust collector to the t-connector and your done.

I hope that the instructions dosen’t confuse anyone too bad, I tryed to get my Photobucket account working to post some photos. Hopefully I will have them up in the next day or two.

Thanks for looking.
http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/scab89/



8 comments so far

View Jimi_C's profile

Jimi_C

507 posts in 1893 days


#1 posted 08-15-2010 05:17 AM

Thanks, that was fast. Definitely favorited, I’m just starting to ramp up all my DC projects, and this is one I’ll definitely try out. I’m pretty sure I can mod my blade guard to have a port on top of it for a hose attachment.

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

View ABrown's profile

ABrown

102 posts in 1569 days


#2 posted 08-15-2010 05:26 AM

Hope it helps you out.

View BillyJ's profile

BillyJ

622 posts in 1861 days


#3 posted 08-16-2010 04:41 PM

Thanks Aaron. I too have to make one. Oh, but wait – I have to complete my DC in the shop!!! You are correct – dust and chips belong in a container, and not in our eyes, hair, clothing, etc. Your directions are very clear. I can’t wait to see the photos.

-- I've never seen a tree that I wouldn't like to repurpose into a project. I love the smell of wood in the morning - it smells like victory.

View ABrown's profile

ABrown

102 posts in 1569 days


#4 posted 08-16-2010 05:47 PM

I’m still having some problems with Photobucket I’ll try to get them up before I leave for IWF next week.

View ABrown's profile

ABrown

102 posts in 1569 days


#5 posted 08-16-2010 06:15 PM

Ok I finnaly got the link from Photobucket to work right, so the photos are up.
You may notice that the t- fitting is not a rockler fitting I attempted to do the homemade PVC fitting thing it works pretty good but leaks some air and has a bout a half of a roll of duct tape on it, so for the price of the rockler fitting I would just use it.

View woodsmith's profile

woodsmith

69 posts in 2450 days


#6 posted 08-16-2010 06:34 PM

I have been trying to do something like that on my table saw. How does it work, do you still get covered with sawdust?

-- woodsmith

View ABrown's profile

ABrown

102 posts in 1569 days


#7 posted 08-16-2010 06:52 PM

it works pretty good, it has one design flaw, it cannot be used on a non through cut such as a Dado. Because the blade guard/splitter would not work. So when I make a dado or rabbit cut I still end up getting covered up.

View Jimi_C's profile

Jimi_C

507 posts in 1893 days


#8 posted 08-19-2010 02:11 PM

For non-through cuts, you could fabricate your own lexan blade guard and attach it with an arm to the overhead tube. That way there’d be no riving knife to interfere. Here’s a link to one example: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

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