| Blog series by 3fingerpat | updated 207 days ago | 10 parts | 2926 reads | 32 comments total |
Part 1: Landon's Toybox, practice makes perfect...
I was asked, by my daughter’s best friend, to build a toybox for her adorable new son, Landon. She had specific requests for what she wanted, a back on it so it could be used as a bench seat and bead board. I thought I could make something work, so I have been purusing through the LJ projects to get some inspiration for a design. Lots of great projects to get ideas from, so I decided on using a frame and panel style with the bead board for the panels. I caught a great deal on some c...
Part 2: Tenon Joint Practice...
Okay, so I went back to the shop to try another method at making Tenons, since I had tried two methods for making the Mortise Joint. The first Tenon I show in the first blog was made using a marking knife to scribe where the shoulder would be (at 2”), the deepen the line with a bigger marker knife at an angle to remove some of the waste side of the line. Then came back again with a sharp chisel to remove even more of the waste side of the line to make a trough for the Tenon Saw to rid...
Part 3: Remaking the plan and ruining the first board
Just a quick update, no pictures this time. I sat down and put some ideas and measurements to paper before I started cutting the first pieces to size. I also glued up another set of boards to be cut in half and used as the front legs (rough size is 1.5” thick x 5.5” wide). As usual, I overdo my design\build and make things harder than it actually needs to be. After redesigning the side panels (this is only a toybox afterall, it shouldn’t be this difficult to decide and a...
Part 4: An unexpected schedule change and some progress
Due to unexpected shoulder surgery that I will be having in the next couple of weeks, I had to change the joinery method. Since my time horizon has been shortened drastically, I can’t keep fiddling around with how I was going to make the frame and panel mortise and tenon joinery. So I decided to use pocket hole joinery instead, it is much quicker and if I want to get this done before I have the surgery, I figured this was the best way to go for me.Since this is going to double as a si...
Part 5: Framed up, skinned and lots of progress
I went back and ripped down the front and back legs from 5.5” to 4” wide; it definitely looks better, much more symmetrical. I finally framed up the whole assembly today. I received the new router bit I ordered, it only took a couple of days, pretty good in my book. Unfortunately none of the practice pieces seemed to work very good. I didn’t like the way the bead board looked and even with a 1/2” deep groove, there just didn’t seem to be enough supp...
Part 6: Back on, bead board rail caps on and top down, getting closer...
I installed the back bead board panel: I then added what I am calling a “rail cap”, which is a rabbetted board that goes up against the upper bead board panel to hold it in place, the rail cap is mounted flush with the back of the legs on the inside to give it a cleaner look: I will add another board, without rabbetting to the bottom of the bead board panel to hold it in place, this board will also be flush with the legs inside the toybox.I cut down the top to size a...
Part 7: Production work completed, the only thing left is S&S...well almost
I sanded down the top and replaced the piano hinge with 3 non mortise hinges and they work much better: Also added the back leg stretcher and I did chamfer the tops of the back legs instead of rounding them over; used my small block plane to make the chamfers: I added finish trim to the bottom of the inside, which also acts to hold the bottom of the bead board tight and flush to the frame: I tried installing the lid supports but that didn’t work out; for some re...
Part 8: Swiss Cheese never looked so good :o)
In the last episode of how not to install toybox lid supports, I was armed with the proper installation measurements but still a little worried that it might not work again. So I made a mock up of small pieces to mimic a box lid using the lid supports. It took two tries to get the placement just right, the measurements were not working out. So feeling confident that I had finally put this issue behind me, I removed the lid support from the mock up and proceeded to make swiss cheese out of ...
Part 9: Started Staining
It has been a while since I last updated this blog; I have been on the road for a couple of business trips which have severely limited my shop time. Since my last post, I finished sanding the project and applied a coat of sanding sealer to help prevent blotching with the pine. I applied the first coat of stain and was very unhappy on how the top looked, scratches and swirls everywhere. So I took it back down and started the sanding process all over again on the top. These pictures are of ...
Part 10: Finish completed, next project please...
After applying one more coat of stain from my last post, which really did the trick, and I think it matches the existing furniture in the room better, I hope. I applied several coats of wipe on poly; first coat was with MinWax wipe on ploy and the following coats I used Liberon wipe on ploy. I really like the Liberon and will only use it in the future. I have used the Liberon the past couple of years and really enjoy working with it. The flash in the pictures really doesn’t due the c...
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