Landon's Toybox #6: Back on, bead board rail caps on and top down, getting closer...

I installed the back bead board panel:

I then added what I am calling a “rail cap”, which is a rabbetted board that goes up against the upper bead board panel to hold it in place, the rail cap is mounted flush with the back of the legs on the inside to give it a cleaner look:

I will add another board, without rabbetting to the bottom of the bead board panel to hold it in place, this board will also be flush with the legs inside the toybox.
I cut down the top to size and installed via a piano hinge:

I installed the wrong size hinge so I will have to go back to replace it with a larger one. Also, the hinge is not a flush hinge, so there is a large gap btwn the lid and permanently mounted back board. It looks terrible and I am thinking about either letting in the hinge or going with 3 separate flush hinges vice a piano hinge. Does anyone else have any recommendations or experience with this issue?

I have also been practicing with dressing the edges, either chamfer or round over to help soften the edges. I like the look of the chamfer on the top of the two back legs, but SWMBO thinks a round over of all edges would be better. So I have been practicing on some spare wood with two different round over profiles. Unfortunately the pine wood is so soft that the guide bearing was deforming the wood and looked like crap, so not sure which way I am going to go yet. I have also been staining and finishing a spare board to try to get the coloring to match the existing furniture in the room. I am pretty close on that, so that shouldn’t be a problem. Also plan on adding the stretcher for the back legs tomorrow. Still need to add the lid support once I have the hinge issue worked out.
Thanks for looking and any suggestions are appreciated.

-- "You get what you inspect, not what you expect"