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|393 days ago||
Cleaning tools - 7 replies
Could you describe your routine, if any, for wiping, cleaning tools after use? Specifically 1. What do you do most regularly to things like saws and planes that cut wood? 2. How often do you do any sort of cleaning? 3. Is there anything special you would do after using your tools on wet, pressure-treated lumber? Thanks!
|398 days ago||
Veritas Plow & Rabbet Planes - 6 replies
Tell me if I’m thinking rightly here…If I get… -Veritas Plow Plane-$230,-Conversion kit-$40-3/4 inch blade-$19,-Tongue-cutting 1/4 blade-$28TOTAL: $317. If I get these, I’ll have capabilities for 1/4 grooves, & tongues, and up to 3/4 in. rabbets as well, right? Is this a viable alternative to getting the plow...
|398 days ago||
Hand drill ID? - 6 replies
Does anyone know what kind of hand drill this is. I picked it up at an antique shop because it spins really freely, even after I stop spinning it. THere are no markings on it whasoever, solid wheel painted red, and a steel hexagon handle. (side small handle is wood). Any Ideas?
|405 days ago||
Honestly now, do you switch saws? - 8 replies
In the following cases…. 1. Cutting out the side waste after using your dovetail (rip) saw to cut dovetails, 2. Cutting shoulders of tenons after using your tenon (rip) saw to cut the cheeks, Do you put down your rip saw and pick up a cross-cut saw for this type of work, or just use the saw that’s already in your hand? -
|412 days ago||
dry sharpening system? - 9 replies
Does anyone have a dry sharpening system that works well and gives a nice edge? Dry meaning no water, no oil, just a plan iron and some surface? Or is the lubricant so necessary that you just won’t get good results without making a mess?
|413 days ago||
No. 3 vs. No. 4 Smoothing plane? - 16 replies
I suppose this question is for people who consider themselves to have “normal” sized hands (subjective, I know). I need to get a smoothing plane, and for someone who already has a #5 Stanley, which I really like…do most people find a #3 too small for normal hands, or just different? Which do you prefer, if you have, or have...
|428 days ago||
Wooden smoothing Plane design? - 4 replies
So, the shop-made planes thread has inspired me to make a wooden smoothing plane… But I want some advice on which style is more comfortable for use. Some have a farily square, or coffin shape: http://www.cjohnhebert.com/woodenplane.htm While others have a more sloped back, like the Krenov-style planes: http://en.wikipedia.org/...
|432 days ago||
Waterstones are messy! - 2 replies
So, I got my first waterstones (1000 & 6000) for Christmas, and just got around to using them this week. They are Japanese waterstones…I sharpened about 8-9 chisels and 8-9 plane irons yesterday and today…starting with coarse sandpaper, then a cheap 4-sided/4grit harbour-freight diamond stone, then 1000 & 6000 waterstones. ...
|437 days ago||
Table saw blade size - 24 replies
My fairly cheap table saw has a 10” blade in it. But I went over to my friend’s house and he had a really old huge cabinet saw with what looked like a 7” blade. Is there any advantage to using a smaller blade on a table saw?
|463 days ago||
Saw Sharpening...You can do it too! - 16 replies
I just wanted to encourage any you who feel you will never be able to sharpen saws, Just get a cheap saw (non-hardened teeth) and go for it. I’ve sharpened up my $7 stanley mitre-box Back-saw, a $1 backsaw from a yard-sale, touched up my Crown Gent’s saw, and most recently cleaned up and sharpened a super-dull old Diston Panel sa...
|469 days ago||
Waterstone Soaking? - 11 replies
What is the reasoning and necessity of soaking waterstones? I just got my very first waterstone (a dual-sided 1000/6000) and the instructions say to soak for 5 minutes, or just store it in water. (It is from Japan…I don’t know if that makes it a “Japenese Waterstone” or not.) I was always under the assumption that ...
|472 days ago||
I like cherry! - 1 reply
I just though I’d share that after 5 (and really all of growing up) building lots of items out of pine, poplar, and red oak…I finally got a piece of 25 year-old cherry from a friend’s barn stash, and I love working it! I have no idea if the project will turn out well…but the way it responds to planing, chiseling and sa...
|479 days ago||
Let's talk about wax... - 5 replies
What are situations where you find that one wax works better than another for shop use? For example: -Some use beeswax on handplane soles…does this work well for both wooden and metal planes? ...Is parafin wax or finishing wax necessarily better or worse? -My Veritas dovetail saw came with instuctions to use parafin wax for lubri...
|492 days ago||
Staining directly after hand-planing? - 7 replies
Does anyone use rub-on stain directly after hand-planing without sanding? It seems that when I do, the surface is too smooth to absorb much stain at all. Especially on pine or poplar. It seems that it needs to be roughed up with some 150 or 220 sandpaper to get a decent darker color. Is that what I need to do, or am I doing something els...
|495 days ago||
Pipe clamp slipping? - 10 replies
the movable part of one of my pipe clamps is slipping. It’s one I use a lot, could it just be worn out? or that spot on the pipe not grippy enough? any thoughts?
|495 days ago||
Design flaw...but it worked! - 3 replies
I was thinking the other day about my nightstands: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/55956 ...Which I made 5 years ago not really knowing anything about how wood glue works and stuff. Here’s the thing: the tops of these nightstands are simply glued onto the end-grain of the sides…that’s it. I set them on and put a heavy b...
|500 days ago||
Short Scrub vs. longer Jack/Fore? - 32 replies
For initial roughing of lumber, such that may have pronounced cupping or warping, do you prefer a short scrub plane, or a longer Jack/fore plane? -Scrub: smaller, lighter, less fatigue, able to get into tighter areas-Jack: longer sole give more reference and should result in a flatter surface. What are your thoughts? For my own purposes, ...
|505 days ago||
cherry Expansion rate? - 6 replies
I would like to make a jewelry box with a solid cherry top 7 inches wide. Does anyone know how much expansion to expect if I complete the box durring the winter months? Will it even be noticable? should I make it slightly undersized so it is flush with the front of the box (hinged at the back) during the spring and summer? There will be noth...
|511 days ago||
Side-mount drawer runners - 5 replies
I am planning to build a jewelry box for my wife with side-mount drawers (so the drawer fronts can be flush with no dividers between them)... I can rount the groove for the slides (See Sketchup picture), and make the wooden strips easily enough, but I have no confidence in my ability to accurately place the wooden drawer slides on the ins...
|527 days ago||
Table saw Set-up/Tuning - 14 replies
Hi all, I just inherited a small craftsman Table saw, the first I’ve owned. (something like this one: http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-10-in-Table-Saw-with-Stand-reviews?tab=details ...except mine is probably around 10 years old…without a stand…which I plan to build.) What kinds of things should I do to prep th...